After building a Son of a Fermentation Chiller and using it for a while.
The RiteTemp Model 8029B digital thermostat can usually be found for less than $25 at your local home improvement warehouse.
The first thing you do is to remove the battery compartment.
Then remove the SIX screws that hold the upper circuit board on.
Do Not Remove the two screws on the left of the circuit board.
It will not blow up you just don’t need to remove them.
Remove the upper circuit board.
Remove the screws holding the lower circuit board on.
Carefully remove the lower circuit board.
Do Not tip the front case over lots of stuff will fall out!
If you tip it over all the little goodies will fall out. This is how they looked before you dumped them out.
Locate the thermistor on the upper corner of the lower circuit board.
Carefully heat the solder and pull out the thermistor wires one at a time.
If you have a solder sucker you can clean out the holes but it’s not necessary.
Solder two wires in place of the thermistor.
You can heat the solder up and push the wire through.
I used solid core 24awg wire I had from another project.
I got the wire from Radio Shack it was 4 conductor and I just stripped two off.
Make sure you have a good solder joint.
I use a low wattage soldering iron with a pencil point.
No Solder Guns Please.
Clip off the extra wire with a wire cutter or nail clipper.
Reinstall the upper board.
Route wires as shown or your favorite way.
Reinstall the battery compartment.
Route the wires as shown or your favorite way.
Solder the thermistor to the ends of the wire.
Put heat shrink tubing on the wires before you solder.
Tin the ends of the wire and solder each one on.
Slide the heat shrink over the joint and shrink.
Complete the project by putting a larger heat shrink tube over the entire thermistor and the solder joints.
After installing on your fermentation chiller tape the thermistor to the side of the carboy.
Put a couple of paper towels folded up as shown or a square of bubble wrap over the thermistor for insulation from the ambient air.
If you need to switch over 24 volts use a relay.
This is a general diagram on the hookup for the controller using a 12 – 24 volt fan and power supply.
This is the general hook up if you use a relay to control a 120 volt AC device like a fan or a pump.
Make sure the relay contacts are rated for at least 120 volts AC and are rated to handle the load amps.
This is a wiring diagram if you're using a DC fan and pump for the glycol chilling system. (Thanks Joe)
Here it is installed on the front of my fermentation chiller. 2009
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John
John
John
I'm feeling a little dense because I'm sure you have it explained above in your instructions, but I am having trouble grasping how to hook up the 12 vdc to the digital thermostat without problems. Would you mind breaking it down for an electronic idiot.
I've got a 12 vdc fan, a 12 vac-dc adapter, and I am trying to figure out what thermostat to buy, any help would be great.
Thanks for the great details, I am looking forward to getting this sucker in operation.
The first wiring diagram shows the complete connections for what you are doing and there is only 2! Basicly you are "switching" one wire on and off between the fan and the wall wort with the ritetemp's built in relay.
John
When I was looking for thermostats I was unable to find the same model that you used but I ended up with a similar Ritetemp model. Just yesterday I finished making the connection for the temp. probe. It all went smoothly and I am planning on hooking up the fan this weekend. Thanks for the help.
Cheers
What is the original "lowest temp" this thermostat can be set to? I've found other makes that are similar; all can only be set to 45F at the lowest. Is the ritetemp also rated to 45 at the low end, or will it hit 35F "out of the box"? Thanks for any input.
Found the answer to my own question (see post above).
Also, for those that can't find the 8029B model, Home Depot carries the RiteTemp 6020. Pretty much the same layout as the 8029B, and the same price.
When it comes to modifying anything thats deals with electricity Im a complete idiot.
Ive wired this up exactly how it is said but it will not kick on. Is there a delay or did i just mess up the wiring? Ive reconnected everything to stock and it works fine, i just have to keep it inside the box.
I had the same issue. Turned out it was a bad thermostat. Took it back to HD, the new one worked perfectly. Try wiring this way:
1) Jumper wire between the RH and RC terminals
2) Positive lead from DC converter connected to the RH terminal
3) Positive lead from fan connected to G terminal
4) Negative leads from converter and fan connected to each other
There may be a small lag time before the fan starts, and will be one approx. 2 minutes after adjusting temp if fan is already running. Hope this helps
thanks for that jumper issue... i had the same sort of problem with the fan needing to be 'on' and not on 'auto'...
Thanks
Thanks!
Blue, yes to both questions.
I already have the thermostat and I am looking to add a dorm size refrigerator(summer) or a heater (winter).
I need guidance as to which relay and which power source to use...A shoppin list if you will...
-Joe
I have an application for a larger fan and would rather not overload the circuit!
Thanks for the easy demonstration and instructions!
BTW- most HVAC guys have a bunch of used ones they will give away if you just ask- when they upgrade peoples systems they usually install some of the big fancy ones and either just toss these old ones in the back of their van or in the trash. *most* of the similar models work about the same (I've got a LUX and a generic one that both work great!) Also, many of these are cheaper at a local HVAC supply shop.Sometimes if you tell them what your doing with it (or bring a couple beers) they will give it to you at the contractor price or even free if they have a few returns sitting around.
Thanks again to everyone submitting on this awesome DIY site!
I'm guessing that this would probably be about the same for the rite-temp and others.
"Solder the thermistor to the ends of the wire.
Put heat shrink tubing on the wires before you solder.
Tin the ends of the wire and solder each one on.
Slide the heat shrink over the joint and shrink."
How do you solder the wires together if there is heat shrink covering the connection? Doesn't the heat shrink tube have a metal connector in the middle that you squeeze onto the connected wires? Please explain this step to me. Thanks. :)
Please help
I've attached it to a drugstore heating pad, and I've gotten the relay to make the connection, however there must be something about the heating pad, b/c I haven't gotten it to warm up yet. Still working on that one.