Remote Sensing DIY Controller for Less Than $25

After building a Son of a Fermentation Chiller and using it for a while.

I found the following problems:
· It would only hold one carboy
· The analog thermostat sucked
· It is a PIA to deal with the ice in deep narrow ice chambers

So I redesigned the controller first to use a digital remote sensing thermostat for under $25.

The Controller


The RiteTemp Model 8029B digital thermostat can usually be found for less than $25 at your local home improvement warehouse.

It is run by two AA batteries and has a thermistor on the circuit board. It is easy to modify the thermistor to remote sensing. It will go as low as 35°F (1.6C).

Disassembly


The first thing you do is to remove the battery compartment.

Then remove the SIX screws that hold the upper circuit board on.

Do Not Remove the two screws on the left of the circuit board.

It will not blow up you just don’t need to remove them.

Remove the upper circuit board.

Remove the screws holding the lower circuit board on.

Carefully remove the lower circuit board.

Do Not tip the front case over lots of stuff will fall out!

If you tip it over all the little goodies will fall out. This is how they looked before you dumped them out.

Locate the thermistor on the upper corner of the lower circuit board.

Carefully heat the solder and pull out the thermistor wires one at a time.

If you have a solder sucker you can clean out the holes but it’s not necessary.

Solder two wires in place of the thermistor.
You can heat the solder up and push the wire through.

I used solid core 24awg wire I had from another project.

I got the wire from Radio Shack it was 4 conductor and I just stripped two off.

Make sure you have a good solder joint.

I use a low wattage soldering iron with a pencil point.

No Solder Guns Please.

Clip off the extra wire with a wire cutter or nail clipper.

Reinstall the lower board.

Reinstall the upper board.

Route wires as shown or your favorite way.

Reinstall the battery compartment.

Route the wires as shown or your favorite way.

Solder the thermistor to the ends of the wire.

Put heat shrink tubing on the wires before you solder.

Tin the ends of the wire and solder each one on.

Slide the heat shrink over the joint and shrink.

Complete the project by putting a larger heat shrink tube over the entire thermistor and the solder joints.

After installing on your fermentation chiller tape the thermistor to the side of the carboy.

Put a couple of paper towels folded up as shown or a square of bubble wrap over the thermistor for insulation from the ambient air.

Connections


If you need to switch over 24 volts use a relay.

The capacitor across the switched legs can’t take 120vac. How do I know, well I tried so you don’t have to smell the smoke when it comes out.

This is a general diagram on the hookup for the controller using a 12 – 24 volt fan and power supply.

This is the general hook up if you use a relay to control a 120 volt AC device like a fan or a pump.

Make sure the relay contacts are rated for at least 120 volts AC and are rated to handle the load amps.

This is a wiring diagram if you're using a DC fan and pump for the glycol chilling system. (Thanks Joe)

Installed


Here it is installed on the front of my fermentation chiller.

If you need any more information just let me know.

John

John on 03/27/08 06:40 pm writes
Nice!

John
John Thornton on 03/30/08 05:17 pm writes
Thanks
John
B-Town Brewer on 05/01/08 02:04 pm writes
Clever. This is a great idea as you can get these cheap almost anywhere. Now where is my soldering iron...
Vine on 05/06/08 09:30 pm writes
could you use this on a chest freezer for a kegerator? How do you wire this if you wanted to do that?
John Thornton on 05/07/08 06:49 am writes
Vine, It will work for anything inside of the temperature range of the control. You just use the relay wiring diagram to control the freezer. Just make sure you pick a relay that will handle the current load of your freezer.

John
Surfbrewer on 05/24/08 01:22 am writes
In the original chiller plans he says "Do NOT use "programmable" or "digital" thermostats, as they require the "normal" 24 VAC power supply to operate, rather than the 12 VDC we're using. Stick to the simple, mechanical units described here."

I'm feeling a little dense because I'm sure you have it explained above in your instructions, but I am having trouble grasping how to hook up the 12 vdc to the digital thermostat without problems. Would you mind breaking it down for an electronic idiot.

I've got a 12 vdc fan, a 12 vac-dc adapter, and I am trying to figure out what thermostat to buy, any help would be great.

Thanks for the great details, I am looking forward to getting this sucker in operation.
Evan on 05/28/08 01:39 pm writes
Thanks for including that second wiring diagram. I should have figured out on my own that I could just get a DC power supply to switch a relay for my 120 volt devices. Looks like I'll be shopping for some thermostats.
John Thornton on 05/29/08 07:45 am writes
Surfbrewer, Well the original plans are not correct. While some thermostats require 24vac to operate you will notice the first description states that the ritetemp runs off of 2 AA batteries.

The first wiring diagram shows the complete connections for what you are doing and there is only 2! Basicly you are "switching" one wire on and off between the fan and the wall wort with the ritetemp's built in relay.

John
Surfbrewer on 05/29/08 04:07 pm writes
Thank you John,

When I was looking for thermostats I was unable to find the same model that you used but I ended up with a similar Ritetemp model. Just yesterday I finished making the connection for the temp. probe. It all went smoothly and I am planning on hooking up the fan this weekend. Thanks for the help.

Cheers
DAlter on 05/30/08 12:08 pm writes
John,

What is the original "lowest temp" this thermostat can be set to? I've found other makes that are similar; all can only be set to 45F at the lowest. Is the ritetemp also rated to 45 at the low end, or will it hit 35F "out of the box"? Thanks for any input.
DAlter on 05/31/08 08:55 am writes
All,

Found the answer to my own question (see post above).

Also, for those that can't find the 8029B model, Home Depot carries the RiteTemp 6020. Pretty much the same layout as the 8029B, and the same price.
Thunder Chicken on 06/01/08 07:15 pm writes
John,

When it comes to modifying anything thats deals with electricity Im a complete idiot.

Ive wired this up exactly how it is said but it will not kick on. Is there a delay or did i just mess up the wiring? Ive reconnected everything to stock and it works fine, i just have to keep it inside the box.
DAlter on 06/03/08 11:44 am writes
Thunder,

I had the same issue. Turned out it was a bad thermostat. Took it back to HD, the new one worked perfectly. Try wiring this way:

1) Jumper wire between the RH and RC terminals
2) Positive lead from DC converter connected to the RH terminal
3) Positive lead from fan connected to G terminal
4) Negative leads from converter and fan connected to each other

There may be a small lag time before the fan starts, and will be one approx. 2 minutes after adjusting temp if fan is already running. Hope this helps
Townie Aler on 06/08/08 10:58 pm writes
DAlter -

thanks for that jumper issue... i had the same sort of problem with the fan needing to be 'on' and not on 'auto'...
Jay on 06/29/08 11:10 pm writes
Mine reads 28* F and Fro some reason will not power up in the above posted configuration... i used a different config but only the fan powers on but does not shut off...
RPHeld on 07/04/08 01:47 am writes
What type of resistor is needed for a 12/24v thermostat to a 120v fridge? I've looked at them online, but all those numbers... it's all greek to me. So do you need a 12v or a 24v relay? or Do you need a 120v relay? And should the amp rating of the relay match the requirements of the fridge?
waterkc on 07/31/08 12:17 am writes
John, This is great, Project like this is what I live for. This is next on the DYO list.

Thanks
Northern Ike on 08/11/08 10:28 pm writes
I'm going to put this together next weekend. Any fan suggestions? What are you all using?

Thanks!
Bluelou6 on 09/06/08 06:37 pm writes
Electrical noob here. If I understand the first diagram above correctly, the wall wort is the power for the fan and the thermostat runs on batteries?
Bluelou6 on 09/12/08 02:59 pm writes
Could this controller be used to control the temp of a chest freezer if the 120v relay was used?
Push Eject on 09/12/08 03:20 pm writes
Ike, a 100mm 12v computer fan from All Electronics would work as an example.

Blue, yes to both questions.
Joe on 11/04/08 10:05 am writes
John-

I already have the thermostat and I am looking to add a dorm size refrigerator(summer) or a heater (winter).

I need guidance as to which relay and which power source to use...A shoppin list if you will...

-Joe
ChrisW on 01/02/09 02:43 am writes
Does anyone have a clue what amps these controllers can handle at 12VDC and/or 24VDC?

I have an application for a larger fan and would rather not overload the circuit!

Thanks for the easy demonstration and instructions!

BTW- most HVAC guys have a bunch of used ones they will give away if you just ask- when they upgrade peoples systems they usually install some of the big fancy ones and either just toss these old ones in the back of their van or in the trash. *most* of the similar models work about the same (I've got a LUX and a generic one that both work great!) Also, many of these are cheaper at a local HVAC supply shop.Sometimes if you tell them what your doing with it (or bring a couple beers) they will give it to you at the contractor price or even free if they have a few returns sitting around.

Thanks again to everyone submitting on this awesome DIY site!
ChrisW on 01/02/09 12:03 pm writes
Per Lux (one of the manufacturers of many of these inexpensive units) "The maximum amperage for the TX500 is 1.5 amps per terminal."

I'm guessing that this would probably be about the same for the rite-temp and others.
Bravo11 on 04/16/09 05:36 pm writes
Tried, before reading comments, to use a Carrier digi thermostat then I learned that it runs on 24 VAC and my power supply and relay is DC. Looking for a DC thermostat now, hopefully free as is everything else in my setup. A note on using an old PC power supply. After testing different voltages of the different wires of the power supply I found that the blue and yellow wires yield 24 vdc. I don't know if that is a standard but it might save some time as other combinations only output 5, 12, 16 vdc--Thx for all the tech help!
Schaeffer on 05/24/09 08:15 am writes
I have a three pin fan, the third pin is a tach. Can i still use this fan, should i just cap off that third wire?
Skinny on 07/22/09 05:59 pm writes
Anyone know if the thermistor in these has a positive or negative temperature coefficient?
Travis on 10/08/09 10:18 pm writes
Quote:
"Solder the thermistor to the ends of the wire.
Put heat shrink tubing on the wires before you solder.
Tin the ends of the wire and solder each one on.
Slide the heat shrink over the joint and shrink."

How do you solder the wires together if there is heat shrink covering the connection? Doesn't the heat shrink tube have a metal connector in the middle that you squeeze onto the connected wires? Please explain this step to me. Thanks. :)
Matt on 10/11/09 05:06 pm writes
You need the heat shrink on the wire before you solder just not right where you're soldering or you'll never get it on later.
SteveWeizen on 11/25/09 07:37 am writes
So the RiteTemp thermostat will switch 12 VDC OK? My switched circuit is 12 VDC and the fan is 180 milliamp. Thanks in advance for the help.
James on 11/26/09 08:51 pm writes
What are my jumper settings, or placement if I have a heat pump. It is not giving heat, but AC works great
Please help
WindwardS on 12/17/09 07:45 pm writes
What a great post! I'm developing this right now (as it's December) toward a heating application, to run a relay that switches some source of heat off/on. I don't really understand electronics, but I had to apply the positive side of the DC power supply to the W post, instead of G.

I've attached it to a drugstore heating pad, and I've gotten the relay to make the connection, however there must be something about the heating pad, b/c I haven't gotten it to warm up yet. Still working on that one.
fartingdog on 12/31/09 06:04 pm writes
Does anyone have a quick recco on best place to grab a decent 120VAC relay? (and part #?) I plan to rig this up for a ferm-wrap for the fermenters.
fartingdog on 12/31/09 06:13 pm writes
Dang, wish I could edit my post. FWIW- I'd like to get away as cheap as possible- can you use a 120V relay with the Rite temp and batteries? or do you need another power supply for that (as shown in the diagram). I have have several 5 and 6V adapters here.
Push Eject on 01/01/10 12:05 pm writes
I've always used separate power supplies, fartingdog. Try All Electronics or Electronic City for transformers and relays or your local surplus joint.
Travis on 01/27/10 06:07 am writes
I used this design on my SOF chiller, and it works great! Thanks Thornton! Peace.

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